Portofino, Italy
In a centuries old former monastery, the VIP friendly Belmond Hotel Splendido and sister Splendido Mare in the town, offer fantastic views, spa, pool, terrace, fine dining, tennis and boat trips
Our review
I’ve known about Hotel Splendido for years. My parents ‘did’ Italy in the 1960s and occasionally the hotel would crop up in conversations over the next few decades. People in the 60s seemed to spend their time drinking cocktails, visiting iconic hotels and wearing lovely clothes, but maybe that’s my child’s mind misremembering. AA Gill also wrote about it a few years ago, so it’s been on some sort of vague subconscious bucket list of mine. We did manage to get within a few yards of it on a day trip to Portofino in 2012 but this time, we visited for real.
Portofino is some sort of tourist hell and impossibly beautiful. If only everyone would go away, it would be absolutely magical. But of course, they don’t go away, and the former quiet fishing village is heaving – a victim of its own pulchritude. Visitors buy overpriced ice creams, and eat meals in the expensive restaurants and take photographs of the washing hanging from the building opposite the pharmacy.
Hotel Splendido is up the hill, away from this madness. (There is a courtesy bus but it’s only a ten-minute walk.) It’s a fabulous building, overlooking the sea and with a wonderful terrace, with highly sought-after front row seats. All around are its gardens, 70 olive trees and a protected National Park, so apart from one or two villas in the distance, the hotel is completely private. To stay here, you are rich and you don’t care how much anything is. Which is just as well, as the prices are high.
We had a two-room Junior Suite with French doors from the lounge and a little balcony with wonderful views over the sea. The wooden floor was covered with a brightly coloured rug and as with all Belmond properties, the décor was exquisite with curtains in my favourite fabric, Zoffany. The bedroom had their signature pop up television, padded headboard and of course in the bathroom, their lovely touches such as local hand painted china for holding the bath salts and soaps, the towelling covered stool and heated towel rail. A separate shower and bath – with grab rails –double sinks, scales, magnifying mirror, soft blue fluffy robes –as is typical with Belmond, you want for nothing. A particular feature is the ample wardrobe storage which is always where you need it and not in the bedroom. A large safe was hidden behind a picture – I’m glad they pointed it out or I’d never have found it – this in itself made me feel I was staying somewhere rather special.
On the terrace downstairs, we had excellent cocktails before dinner, mixed by long-serving barman Antonio. Then Vladi the pianist, resplendent in his sparkling lilac jacket, one of many he told me that are made for him in London, serenaded us. More Carnaby Street than Jermyn Street, I imagine. At this point, you either find it all a bit cheesy and rather silly or you just enjoy the fun and imagine you live in this 1960s time warp all the time. You may have to hold your tongue when you are given the ladies menu if you are female and ignore the fact that waiters tend to fuss over the regulars. But the fabulous view and lovely food will soon lift your mood. We were lucky to get a ringside seat on the dining terrace overlooking the lake. I had Elizabeth Taylor’s favourite dish here, named after her – spaghetti pomodoro and Paul had his usual sea bass with a side of rosemary potatoes. With the lights twinkling on the water and anchored yachts far below, it’s a magnificent sight.
The hotel has a kids club – complimentary for guests with children during high season – and a superb spa and saltwater pool.
We had a chance to see the new Dolce Vita Suite villa – with its own plunge pool being planned for 2015. Completely private and a few steps away from the main building, it has its own terrace and grounds and must be one of the top suites in Northern Italy. With blue and white tiled flooring and sleeping four people, it’s the perfect superior suite for a small family.
A ten-minute walk down through the grounds takes you to the port. Here is Splendido’s sister hotel Splendido Mare. Right on the harbour side, it has prime position in this pretty port. It’s ideal for those who want to be in the thick of things and perhaps nearer to other restaurants and bars, although the hotel’s own looked impressive when we visited – with wooden floors and lemon and soft blue colour scheme. The Ava Gardner suite is one of the nicest I’ve ever seen, with a spectacular terrace overlooking the harbour.
Hotel Splendido is not to everyone’s taste, but it’s an experience I don’t think anyone should miss. You either stay here once, or like nearly half the other guests, become completely bewitched and make an annual pilgrimage.
Rooms
Belmond Hotel Splendido offers around 60 rooms and suites set on a hillside overlooking Portofino, many with private terraces and panoramic sea views. Interiors combine classic Italian elegance with modern comfort. Belmond Splendido Mare provides approximately 15 rooms and suites located directly on Portofino’s harbour, featuring contemporary Mediterranean styling, marble bathrooms and balconies or terraces overlooking the marina.
Food and Drink
At Belmond Hotel Splendido, La Terrazza Restaurant serves Ligurian cuisine in a refined setting with sweeping views across the bay, while the Splendido Grill offers relaxed poolside dining. The American Bar is known for cocktails and evening aperitivi.
At Belmond Splendido Mare, DaV Mare restaurant focuses on contemporary Italian and seafood dishes, served with front‑row harbour views. The piazza‑side bar provides a lively setting for drinks and people‑watching. Seasonal gelato service adds a casual touch to the dining experience.
Wellness
Wellness facilities at Belmond Hotel Splendido include a heated saltwater swimming pool, fitness centre and wellness treatment rooms offering massages and beauty treatments. Guests of Splendido Mare have access to the wellness facilities at the hillside hotel via shuttle service.
Facilities
- Panoramic swimming pool
- Restaurants and bars
- Wellness and treatment rooms
- Fitness centre
- Gardens and terraces
- Complimentary shuttle between hotels
- Concierge service
- Private boat and beach access via partner clubs
- Event and private dining spaces
- Free Wi‑Fi
Location
Belmond Hotel Splendido is set on a hillside above Portofino, surrounded by gardens and overlooking the Ligurian Riviera. Belmond Splendido Mare is located directly on Portofino’s iconic Piazzetta, steps from the harbour, boutiques and cafés. Nearby attractions include the Portofino Marine Reserve, Paraggi Beach and coastal walking trails.
Getting there
Address: Salita Baratta, 16, 16034 Portofino, Italy
Arriving by air: Genoa Cristoforo Colombo Airport – Located 27 miles (45 km) 50 minutes by car
More information
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* Note: The hotel review was last updated in early 2026. Please let us know if you spot any factual errors.